Manakamana

Stirring the seafood curry from the bottom of the dish brings up chunks of fish and shellfish submerged in the gravy, followed by a crisp, lingering wave of spice. At Manakamana in Kitakoiwa, the kitchen turns out a varied selection of curries centered on the deep flavors of meat and vegetables, including mutton cooked down gently until tender.

Because the sauces carry an underlying, gentle sweetness, ordering medium-spicy or spicy is recommended when you want a clear spicy kick. The menu invites diners to match specific meats and gravies, featuring options like mutton sagwala simmered with spinach, mutton rara cooked with minced meat, and pork masala scented with coconut.

For carbohydrates, the kitchen bakes classic plain naan in the tandoor alongside fragrant sesame naan and substantial cheese naan filled with melted cheese. Rice dishes such as turmeric rice and chicken fried rice are also on hand, giving diners plenty of flexibility in pairing starches with their meal.

Manakamana is an easy stop for a midday lunch, but it works just as well in the evening for solo diners or groups settling in over beers and small plates. Takeout is available, and staff are willing to box up any unfinished portions to take home.